'Tis the Season

It’s barely December, but it is impossible not to know the end of the year is approaching. Christmas lights and decorations cannot be escaped on land, nor can they be avoided in any public area on the ship. But not only are people preparing for a holiday … the Humpback Whales of the North Pacific are on the move to their tropical winder breeding grounds of choice.

Sailing toward Ensanada, Mexico last week, a small group passed right in front of the ship, heading South.

Then, four days later, two hundred miles from Honolulu, I was elated to see a group of about five (based on their spouts) about a quarter of a mile off our port side. Within minutes of sighting the whales, a male Great Frigate Bird soared overhead. Two wildlife sightings at once was almost too much for me to process, but I was momentarily distracted from the water and followed the black angular figure of the frigate as he effortlessly climbed higher into the sky. As if things couldn’t get any better, he was joined by what appeared to be a female, as I could make out white markings on her chest instead of the distinct red throat pouch of the male. One of my favorite features of many seabirds is that they mate for life. Looking more closely at the markings on the photos later, I realized the other bird was probably immature. Although unclear, I’d like to think it was a female.

Soon, the pair disappeared over the horizon and I was back to scanning the water for the group of Humpback Whales.

They were breathing quite frequently, and so were clearly on the move. Although they were also heading West, we passed them in just a few minutes. I wonder if it frustrates them to not be able to get to Hawaii faster! I thought this sighting was a good sign for our chances of encountering whales in the islands. 

Sure enough, just before weighing anchor off of Lahaina, Maui on Thanksgiving, just as the sun was rising over Haleakala, three spouts were visible simultaneously. This not only advertised their arrival, but the fact that one spout was much smaller than the other two indicated that the birthing season had begun! Perhaps the female could sense that her due date would require getting to Hawaii a bit early this year. It seems she made it just in time as calf’s health was indicated by its playful behavior. I smiled as I watched it repeatedly slap the water’s surface with a uniquely marked pectoral fin and I was filled with gratitude for an ocean teeming with life.