May 21, 2014

Animal Ambassadors


Day two, after arriving in Vancouver and I'm on a small craft in search of killer whales in the Strait of Georgia. The weather was incredibly calm, resulting in the smooth seas that allow for easy spotting. Despite this and reports of earlier whale sightings, it still took us 45 minutes to find them. And then, there they were. A single dark figure, slicing stealthily through the water somehow instantly dissolved the chill from the cold air and the the tired eyes from nearly an hour of intense scanning. Shortly after, we were alongside a group of about six orcas: four females, one male on his way to maturity, and (to our delight) a calf. 

The calf was fast when surfacing, giving us very brief glimpses, but enough to reveal a remnant yellowish tint to the white patterns of its skin. The group was traveling leisurely, but in no apparent direction. Although we respected their distance, they didn't necessarily respect ours and several times appeared unexpectedly underneath or on any given side of the boat. It was exhilarating to hear the power in their exhales and humbling to witness the awareness in their eyes with the occasional sideways spy hop when the whales surfaced to breathe. 

At one point, another group unexpectedly joined the one we'd been observing and we were surrounded by at least a dozen whales for a few minutes. There was silence from the boat and silence from the water as the whales then separated just as quickly as they'd come together. To witness these animals in the wild and forested scenery of Beautiful British Colombia for the first time was truly special and so incredibly different from the way I'd encountered them in captivity. I fell in love all over again, but this time, I also came away with deep respect. On the way back to the harbor, I told the Naturalist onboard how grateful I was, not only for the experience, but for the footage I would now be able to share with others to hopefully instill the same love and respect for these unique animals. 

I also mentioned that I'd planned to visit the Vancouver Aquarium the next day and asked if she'd recommend it. "Of course I would," she said, "I work there." What are the odds? Her passion for the wildlife in the waters of BC became even more apparent the following day when I met her at the aquarium entrance for a VIP tour. Not only does the facility have many colorful fish and invertebrates on display, it is also home to an assortment of marine mammals. I was particularly fascinated by their pairs of Pacific White-Sided Dolphins (which I have never had the opportunity to observe in the wild) and their Harbor Porpoises (which at less then two meters in length, rarely allow anything more than brief glimpses of their tiny dorsal fins). 

She may have lost parts of her pectoral fins from entanglement in fishing gear,
but she kept a whole lot of her agility!
All four of these whales had been rescued and rehabilitated by the aquarium, but could not be re-released into the wild. It was obvious that my new friend and fellow Naturalist would have wanted nothing more than to see them roaming through the waters extending from the coastline where we'd seen the orcas the day before, but was happy that they were getting the best life possible while also serving an important purpose. I stood in front of the harbor porpoises and watched a couple of young girls excitedly rattle off facts that they'd just learned about the animals from another staff member. I suppressed a laugh as one of the porpoises responded to the girls, whose faces were now glued to the viewing glass, by quickly surfacing and swimming in a fast circle, then returning to face them and stare back just as intently. Meanwhile, the other porpoise was on the other side of the tank, seemingly much more interested in an object on the bottom than the girls. 

It was then that I was reminded of something I'd learned many times throughout my studies ... just as we cannot generalize about the individual animals (particularly intelligent ones), we can't generalize about their circumstances. Not all captive situations are the same. In the case of  these four whales, with little chance of survival in the wild, a positive alternative has been to serve as ambassadors to their species and to allow for research, with the ultimate goal of inspiring the understanding and love that forms the foundation of a conservation ethic in humans. However, today we know that many of these amazing animals do provide the incredibly special opportunity to be witnessed in the wild. 

These issues are not always black and white, they are more often grey and it is our responsibility, then, to hold aquariums, marine parks, research facilities, and even ecotourism companies accountable for their ethics and mission, and to distinguish what is carried out for the sake of education and research from what is purely entertaining and profitable. 

May 9, 2014

Last Chances

I am saying farewell to the warm waters the tropical Pacific for awhile to start new adventures in colder climates. But I couldn't leave without taking full advantage of my short time in Hawaii last week ...
In Maui, I kept up with my tradition of going out on a boat with the Pacific Whale Foundation. Not ten minutes out of the harbor, we encountered humpback whales that were also making the most out of their last days in the islands. Three males seemed to have been short of luck with females this season and were aggressively competing for the attention of one of the few remaining females with a calf. 
Fighting with bubbles and brute force, the victor will escort the pair to their feeding grounds in Alaska. For the other competitors, better luck next year! Because for both the whales and I, it's time to say goodbye (for now). 

Late season competition.

May 8, 2014

South Pacific Treasures


Sooty Shearwater joining us in the Equator crossing.
Crossing both the International Dateline and the Equator on a cruise across the South Pacific Ocean is still difficult to process ... but I can't ponder the amount of ocean I've covered without feeling majorly "one-upped" by the incredible birds and whales that regularly travel such distances by their own strength and inherent abilities to ride winds and waves. While we must prepare for weeks for such a voyage, often needed a few days to adjust to the conditions found on the open sea, these incredible creatures (that I've had the joy of rattling on about onboard the immense Celebrity Solstice cruise ship) are perfectly at home in even the roughest weather.
Meet the locals.

In New Zealand, we were greeted by the robust figures of Bottlenose dolphins leaving the blue green surface of the waters surrounding the bay of islands. Having arrived after a large storm, we were amazed by the color and variety of shells that had been thrown up to cover the shorelines. Many of the treasures we inspected reminded me that even the small creatures that we can easily overlook are amazingly adapted to their habitat.




The spinner dolphins of Moorea went along nicely with the romantic profile of all things Tahitian, as they carried on swimming close and rhythmic, sometimes turning belly to belly, even in our presence. The magic continued with rays, fish, coral, and other reef life we found in abundance in the lagoon of Bora Bora. On the last days at sea before our arrival in Hawaii, we were joined on our equator crossing by the some of the same species of birds that we'd seen in the distance spanning between New Zealand and French Polynesia! What a feat indeed!